The Best and Worst Dark Academia Fashion Men of the Nineties

The 1990s were quite the melting pot of styles, and dark academia fashion – inspired by classic scholarly and literary aesthetics – found its territory during this time. The moody color palette, tweed, wool, and intellectual vibe were the mark of this style that some men in pop culture wore. Some are considered iconic representations of the dark academia fashion men look while others failed miserably at creating the right look. Let’s take a peek at some of the best and worst examples.

Best:

Ethan Hawke, Dead Poets Society, 1989

 

The film was released at the beginning of the decade, but it starred Ethan Hawke as Todd Anderson in Dead Poets Society completely shaped the late 80s and early 90s fashion mold. His layered look of cozy sweaters, crisp button-downs, and muted tones was the epitome of dark academia. Intellectual yet slightly disheveled, it captured everything about the genre.

Jude Law in The Talented Mr. Ripley, 1999

 

It was Jude Law who came as a bright starscape of dark academia with the character Dickie Greenleaf in The Talented Mr. Ripley. This was the luxury end of the spectrum—tuned suits and high-quality knitwear. The scholarly look, polished with refinement, made him one of the best-dressed characters of his time.

Jeremy Irons (The Merchant Ivory Films)

 

Jeremy Irons could be seen in several period flicks during the 90’s: The Remains of the Day and The House of the Spirits come to mind. His elegant portrayal of melancholic intellectuals attired in wool coats, knit vests, and classic Oxford shirts epitomized dark academia. In terms of looks, he was part of that long-standing continuum-may I say affable cultural icon? His looks were timeless, intellectually sexy, and quintessentially English with a dark edge to the whole affair.

Christian Bale (Metroland, 1997)

 

Bale’s character in Metroland was the dark academia but much more rebellious other side of it. His style married the classic, scholarly look with a bit undone, disillusioned attitude. Blazers that go with a bit of worn-in trousers and scarves give his look this lived-in feel, perfect for an intellectual on the fringe.

Worst:

Johnny Depp, Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, 1998:

 

Johnny Depp rarely dresses himself in similar genres, but Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas is far from the dark academia fashion men. It had the cinematographer fill him up with bold patterns and wild prints which were nowhere near moody and structured for an ordinary dark academia look.

Keanu Reeves (The Matrix, 1999)

 

While The Matrix was indeed the huge pop culture event of 1999, Keanu Reeves’ black leather wardrobe was rather heavy on the cyberpunk end rather than dark academia. The style was futuristic and tech-driven, a far cry from traditional, vintage, and academic in this trend.

Brad Pitt (Fight Club, 1999)

 

Brad Pitt’s scruffy individualism look in Fight Club was iconic in its own right, but not quite the mark of dark academia. His grunge-influenced outfit, which was composed of tear-and-wear clothes and distressed textures, simply didn’t fit the bill of refined, intellectuality backstage at dark academia.

Honorable Mention:

River Phoenix (My Own Private Idaho, 1991)

River Phoenix’s style in My Own Private Idaho would have been a blend of dark academia and grunge touches. He looked undone, intellectually dull, yet melancholic, so it really fit him to be part of this trend.

The 1990s was a defining decade of fashion, but the aesthetic that came to be known as dark academia was by no means already written in the cement. Its outline was surely there among the celebrities, but some of them donned the aesthetic with some nostalgic elegance, while others took it quite off script and even included some styles against dark academia’s excellent and scholarly, bookish sense.